I've painted three Lost in Space Robots in the past months. First a 16" YM-3 Japanese model produced in 1985. Second a 10" plastic resin kit known for it's detail. (It had 53 parts at my count.) Last, but not least, a 7" Polar Lights reproduction of the 1960's model. Mind you, I had no practical experience at models as a child. I have just the steady hands, and patience of a determinded adult, armed with rudimentary tid bits of modeling picked up over the years.
This is my story of the paints. Though I painted three LIS B-9 Robot's (and one 16" Robby the Robot), I use the same color paints to maintain uniformity, and look of authenticity.
First thing I do is ignore SOME of the suggested colors provided by the model manufacturer. As any LIS fan knows, the Robot went through some changes in the 3 seasons it was used. The first season Robot had ragged legs in anthricite (light) grey. I prefer the 3rd season because the legs were professionally redone in that nice black, latex rubber look.
Selecting colors was a pain staking process. My only reference was some internet photos, and a 6' life size cardboard cutout as my color guide. I choose to keep the key colors secret. Believing I have the most authentic looking Robots, you can understand me not wanting to see them reproduced any time soon. You may agree these Robots have a memorable appearence. In spite of how the original looks in person, I believe my Robots impute the feeling, "Now that's the Robot I remember from TV!"
The real Robot is painted a grainy silver to reduce glare from the stage lights, but I didn't know how to reproduce the grainy surface. I used a different metalic color closely combining the finished look on the poster, and the color I recall from TV. (No older than 8, I watched LIS as reruns no later than 1973.) Plain red for the claws simply would NOT do. I picked a red resembling machined painted steel for a more menacing tone. The kind of red you see on heavy industrial hooks. I used it on the red fin, and chest lights, as well.
Flat black is used for the chest and tire treds. I decided chrome for the tred rollers would stand out better against the feet. Glossy white resembles bulbs for the two chest lights. The colored chest lights used a combination of regular gloss, and glow paint. This gives the illusion of on and off lights, showing up best in flash photography.
Though it may lighten up in flash photos, the paint for the legs was a GOD SEND. Staring intently at my 6' cardboard cutout, I could see they appeared to be a dull shiny black, latex rubber. Black was out of the question. Even if I could find flat-ish black, latex rubber paint, I feared it would look too dark
The 16" YM-3 instructions shows a color photo with the suggested silver body, and silver-black legs. Surely, this is the sick bastard child of a model painter loveless for our bubble-headed booby! I needed something appropriate quick. With colors burned in my mind I pondered, and picked them out at two paint stores. Even the darkest grays for the legs wouldn't do. I considered mixing my own paint. But how!? Do I mix white with black; black with dark grey; black, white AND dark gray? I stood undecided for at least 15 minutes. I sighed as I was about to settle for the best gray I could find.
In answer to prayer, God lead me to look over at the railroad model paints I somehow missed. My eyes falling squarely where I needed to look. Staring in disbelief I grabbed a bottle of the fateful paint and shook it vigorously. Holding it up I inspected it's swirling fluids in the light. "Hmmmm, yes... yes... YES!! When it dries it should do nicely.", I gleamed in my mind.
Painting was pretty unremarkable for the most part. Touch ups for the crossed boundries was most tedious. Hair-like wood splinters allowed painting between the square light panels of the smaller Robots. Creating a shadow under the real treds of the 10" plastic resin model proved time consuming.
First painted was the metallic parts and I was extremely pleased with results. Finally, I embarked on the legs. Nervously I shake the bottle wanting to mix every molecule perfectly. I dipped my foam brush stroking it on the back of the legs in case I hated the results. Love at first stroke. With every brush stroke looking more "perfect", I thankfully praised the Lord. It takes at least 2-3 coats for the proper look.
Though these Robots are complete I never consider them finished. I've gone back months later for other touch ups. I'm pondering how to give a glassy look to the grilled lower body ports of the 16" YM-3 Robot. Time will tell. The moral? Even less detailed models can look authentic if you can find the right paint. Ex: Ever consider automotive touch-up paint for a model car? "Warning! Warning!" Make sure it doesn't chemically react with the plastic first!
Frank P. DeCandia